Climb the Piekenierskloof plateau, 700 metres up in the Citrusdal Mountains, and you'll find some of the oldest, gnarliest Chenin Blanc bush vines in the Cape. Planted in the 1950s and dry-farmed in sandy loam soils, they produce tiny crops of intensely flavoured fruit. This is what serious South African Chenin tastes like when it's grown with patience and made with restraint.
In the glass, expect white blossom and a generous swathe of tropical fruit (think yellow peach, ripe pear, a hint of pineapple), with a textural creaminess that comes from six months in 500-litre French oak barrels, 30% of them new. Spontaneous fermentation and time on the lees add a savoury, almost waxy depth. The finish is long and elegant, lifted by a thread of apricot and a cooling acidity that belies the wine's richness.
This is a Chenin built for the table. Try it with a roast chicken and lemony potatoes, a creamy mushroom risotto, or a piece of pan-fried hake with brown butter. It's also wonderful with mature Cheddar or a wedge of crumbly Lancashire.
Delivered to your door anywhere in the UK, this is the kind of bottle you reach for when you want to impress without shouting. Sending a taste of home to a South African friend? They'll know immediately you've chosen well.
